Saturday, 5 October 2019

Mile munching!.......


It’s two months since we turned around and headed westward; and we have now arrived in Gibraltar having covered around 2000 nautical miles to get to here.  

...from Kos to Gibraltar - 2000nm in 2 months!
We have largely been revisiting places we have been to before because the familiarity means we can go faster as we know where to anchor, we don’t spend time finding the supermarket and we know where the best repair facilities and engineers are to be found.  We spent a week with our favourite engineer, Juan Pedro in Cartagena, and we have invited him for a busman’s holiday to the Caribbean as we are bound to need him in the future – he said it was an interesting proposition 😊 
Strangely we are getting much more accustomed to travelling long distances without getting bored.  I remember the first time we crossed the English Channel to go to Cherbourg it seemed interminable and I kept saying ‘are we there yet?’ whereas now we are both content to be on line when we are near the coast and read and chat for hours when we aren’t. We arrive when we arrive and as long as no one is relying on us to pick them up, that feels like a pretty relaxed way to live in contrast with the stress of London and working life.    
It’s probably just as well we are acclimatising, because it is going to take three weeks to cross the Atlantic and we won’t have internet to entertain us. But we will have good company and people to play games with.
One of the most important things we have done whilst we have been returning is to have some solar panels fitted. Until now when we have been on anchor we have needed to run our generator for at least two hours per day to re-charge our batteries, which is noisy; expensive and not very ecologically friendly, so we have wanted solar panels for quite a while now. We decided to fit Solbian panels and found a dealer who could fit them in Lavrion near Athens, so our route West took us there - where we stayed for 3 weeks while the panels were manufactured and fitted. 
We are now officially off-grid

Lavrion is not the most exciting place in the world - one of the town’s top attractions on Trip Advisor is a disused conveyor belt. 


Rated on Trip Advisor

However, it was a bus ride away from Athens which we visited to see a wonderful performance of La Traviata at the Odeon of Herodes in the Acropolis.




We also visited some cool bars and ate some very good food whilst we were there.
Fabulous cured meats in Athens



A wonderful setting!....



Our route West took us through the Corinth Canal, which saved us several hundred miles of travel 
and we travelled in tandem with Mags and Steve on Silver Fox. It’s a pretty phenomenal piece of engineering but must be one of the most expensive stretches of water in the world. It cost us €280 for the 4 mile journey!



After the Corinth Canal we moved along the Gulf of Patras to the Ionian, making a slight detour to Preveza to meet Ed and his friends who were on holiday there before going to Fiskardo to meet our friends Liz and Simon. Not only were Liz and Simon celebrating the fact that they had just picked up their new 50ft catamaran, but it was also Liz’s 55th birthday so we had a great time helping them party.




Liz had a great cake for her 55th birthday.

Our crew are taking their up and coming roles seriously.  Paul Haresign came out to help us move Viridian from Greece to Sardinia.  We met him in Argostoli in Kefalonia and sailed from there to Syracuse, where we stopped briefly for a couple of nights before moving on to Cagliari in Sardinia. It was a trip of over 600nm and several nights, so it was a good opportunity for him to get familiar with the boat, to get the spinnaker out and for us to practice our overnight watch system.  

It's so useful to have racing crew on board

Paul also got to sample my cooking and thankfully he is still coming! 

Pre-Atlantic training

One recent purchase for the boat has been a new fishing rod. We have decided that we will need to supplement our Atlantic diet with some fresh fish and since Greg rather carelessly allowed a fish to steal the previous one, we needed a replacement. He was trying out the new rod as we were sailing to Cagliari and no-one was more astonished than he, when he actually caught one! He is a bit too much of a sissy to take the fish off the hook, so I had to do that and then we had a debate about whether it was edible or not. In the end he threw it back because it was a bit small but we later discovered that it was a dorade or mahi-mahi and apparently very good eating.


Whilst in Majorca we had hoped to catch up with friends Ray and Cath on their yacht Cady but sadly we didn’t link up due to all of us being caught up in a terrible storm.  We were at sea and experienced a terrifying squall with 53knots of wind.  It was probably our most scary experience so far.  We survived it due to Greg’s skill and experience; he went into a higher level of awareness and command when I could see nothing and hadn’t a clue what to do. I didn’t take any photos of us actually in the midst of the storm as I was too busy hanging on for dear life but I did capture it approaching and us drying out everything when we got into Palma.
There may be trouble ahead!

Most things in the boat were wet...

Sadly, our friends’ yacht Cady anchor dragged 
and she ended up on the shore when three boats got anchors tangled in the storm.  She is still out of the water being repaired and we hope all will be well again for them soon.

So sad......

Lesley and Ian joined us in Majorca and sailed across to Ibiza with us.  Whilst we were in Majorca we decided to visit Nikki Beach because it is always a great fun place for people watching – we weren’t disappointed.




For my 65th birthday I couldn’t resist one more night clubbing in Ibiza.  It may be a while before we are back here so wanted to make the most of the opportunity.  It was a great night.




Our dinghy motor wasn’t working again so we went out and bought a new Yamaha which Greg then said was my birthday present! .  Greg seems very happy with my birthday present – his face lights up every time it starts.  Having received new sheets for the Genoa as my wedding anniversary present, I can’t wait to see what I get for Christmas!
My wedding anniversary present.....

.....and my birthday present - no cake, just an outboard motor!

After a lovely week, we waved goodbye to Lesley and Ian and then left Ibiza sailing overnight to Cartagena where Juan Pedro executed his magic on our electrics.  We then moved on to Almerimar, for a rig-check and then onto Malaga for some sail repairs. One of the great things about Malaga is that you can moor in the main harbour bang in the centre of the city - we always feel privileged.


A quite exclusive mooring. 

This is all part of our planning to get everything on the boat checked and repaired before we cross the Atlantic. It probably won’t last very long but at least we intend to start our Atlantic crossing with everything working……
We are staying here in La Linea next to Gibraltar for the next two weeks whilst Viridian has a facelift.  She is having her topsides painted in ‘Flag Blue’ and her tatty gold stripe will be restored to its former glory.  Thanks to Tim and Shane for their recommendation for the work after having Occo painted last year.  We are really looking forward to seeing Viridian sparkling in the sunshine as we continue the next phase of our travels down the Atlantic coast to the Canaries and we will post the before and after pictures on our next blog.



Saturday, 6 July 2019

The end of the road.....

OK slight exaggeration in the title for those of you speculating on an impending divorce or return to Blighty – although given the current political situation who on earth would consider that if they had a choice?

No!……...au contraire…..we have reached as far east  as we are going in the Med and this week we have turned around - we are now heading west and working our way towards the Canaries. This marks the start of our run up to our Atlantic crossing and we are feeling excited. So, if you were thinking about joining us at some point in the Med in 2019 you had better get a grip or you will have to wait for the Caribbean and beyond in 2020.

Obviously we realise there is so much more to see and we could spend years here, but we definitely don’t want to do another winter here for a bit and we are saving some of it for if we return to these waters.

Following a very cold spring we have had a glorious, sunny and windy summer in the Aegean so far.

We have decided not to give a blow by blow account in this blog of what we have been up to in the ‘then we did this and then we did that style’, but rather to highlight places that have delighted and inspired us. 


As we left the Pelopennese the weather bucked up and we spent a few days in the fascinating historic town of Monemvassia. We had never heard of it before but our friend Petros recommended it to us -  it is stunning and well worth a visit.  We timed it well because apparently in high season it is inundated with tourists but we managed to enjoy it peacefully in late May.  Greg took the opportunity to use his new drone to get some perspective on its spectacular vistas.









Milos

The island of Milos is definitely worth a visit.
Having waited for the bus for a while to visit the Chora, we discovered it wasn’t running on that day so we hired a car.  

That was a lucky escape because we realised that the bus timetable would have dumped us at a site in the middle of nowhere which required 10 minutes of your attention to enjoy it - and then a three hour wait in the heat for the next bus.

With the car, we visited a number of places at our leisure including the catacombs at Plaka, the surreal lunar style volcanic beach landscape and the Chora (mountain village).


I was very struck by the sadness of the little tombs  for babies next to their mum's tomb at the catacombs.


The chora on Milos with church on the peak
We climbed to the church at the top!
The lunar like landscape at Sarakiniko beach on Milos
Amorgos

We were recommended to go to Amorgos by Cath McDonald.  Again, we had never heard of it and we are so glad we went there.  It’s a beautiful island and is particularly attractive to people who like mountain walking.  There are some paths over the mountains taking in the stunning monastery clinging to the cliff. 




 
Built in 1017, the 2nd oldest monastery in Greece


At anchor in Amogos

This time we did take the bus and didn’t realise where to get off, so we ended up with a full tour of the island before realising we were 40 minutes past the monastery.  

After the monastery we were waiting at the bus stop for the bus back when we could both smell skunk.  Greg of course did a thorough search but was disappointed when he couldn’t work out the source.  Our friend Briggy told us later that there is a Greek weed that smells of skunk but apparently does not contain THC.

Kos

Our friend Briggy lives in Kos and keeps his yacht Zephyrus in Kos marina.  We decided to use Kos as a base for visitors flying in and out in the same way as we used Corfu last year. Ed and Miranda both visited us here and Ed brought along his friend Tom. 
Ed and Tom exploring...
Guess who just lost......
Miranda is glad to be aboard!

In addition to the pleasure of spending time with Briggy, it has been brilliant to have the benefit of his local knowledge!..  

We have managed to avoid ‘bar street’ and other more notorious parts of the island; we have eaten in some fabulous restaurants (not on the seafront); and been clubbing until the early hours in out of town venues - especially at Club Mylos. 

Club Mylos is lots of fun!


Of the restaurants, we would recommend Broadway restaurant (its Modern Greek with a twist); Sxolarxeio which means secret school is on the site of an ‘underground’ school where they secretly taught Greek during the Italian occupation when people were not allowed to speak Greek.  The meze 
menu comes hand-written in crayon and pencil in an exercise book.  The food is delicious; we recommend the mushrooms in garlic and sweet wine sauce and the aubergine salad with their special pitta bread.



The menu at Sxolarxeio
It is also worth hiring a car and driving into the mountains.  
We visited the mountain village of Zia and ate twice at a fabulous restaurant called Oromedon. 



The salad with fresh figs and orange was wonderful!
Its a wonderful place to eat delicious food and enjoy the sunset - on the second occasion with Briggy and our son Ed who visited us recently. 




Enjoying the sunset... 
On the way back from Zia we spotted a dead snake in the road. Facebook took down the photo because it displayed graphic violence!  We were not responsible for its violent death honestly! 
 
 




We have managed to spend most of our time in Kos on anchor just off the castle.  It's sometimes a bit rocky when the ferry comes in but we love our new Mantus anchor, it’s a bit like the claim of the  Premier Inn – guaranteed to give you a good night’s sleep! 
The marina is about 50E per night and has good facilities.



Moored by the castle in Kos



Briggy has made us feel very welcome in Kos and has helped us out as well as directing our entertainment.
Greg getting a soldering lesson from Briggy - note strategic Alpha bottle.....
 
Nisyros


One of our favourite places visited in the Aegean has been Nisyros. It’s a volcanic island with massive calderas and is still active.  




We moored up in Pali on the quay which was very sheltered and inexpensive.  The people are lovely in this quiet little port.  We hired a car from there and went to the spectacular caldera early in the morning before it gets too busy and hot. We also visited some fab mountain villages, monasteries and natural saunas




Ed giving his old mum a snuggle after a tough climb
Fantastic views everywhere you look

Miranda and Greg near the second crater
There is evidence of earth tremor damage everywhere and extensive terracing has been completed throughout the island to stabilise the shale and ash fields.


It’s definitely worth visiting the villages of Emporios  and Nikia as well as the main town Mandraki.  You can tour the whole island in a day. We would recommend eating out for lunch at The Taverna To Balcon in Emporios which has terraces overlooking the caldera but far enough away not to smell the sulphur. It's hard to beat those views!

Lunch overlooking the caldera on Nisyros
 
We hadn’t realised how volcanic this region is. Kos waterfront has still got evidence of earthquake damage from 2015. 



Earthquake damage along the waterfront in Kos

There are old calderas everywhere, and we are noticing that the area is becoming more active with Etna erupting a few weeks ago and then Stromboli this week.  In the two weeks that we repeatedly visted Nisyros with our visitors we photographed increasing activity and new fumeroles.  Are we heading for a major earthquake soon in this region?  We’ve been reading up on Tsunami advice for yachts just in case.
 
Simi


Another beautiful jewel is Simi. Again a mountainous landscape with fabulous architecture but this time in a colourful neoclassical style rather than whitewash and blue paint. We climbed high into the upper part of the town - the views were spectacular and the cocktails were even better!!




 


Excellent mojitos!
 
The food at Tymos was excellent and the location stunning.
 
Sadly, our visit was slightly marred by the fact that the port police/ harbourmaster decided to hem us in with two massive motorboats, blocking our view and preventing us getting breeze.  Greg did get into an altercation about it because the harbour was totally empty and it was so unnecessary. On reflection, we decided this was my fault because I had decided to do three loads of washing and I had all of our smalls and general laundry hanging on the rails which was doubtlessly lowering the tone so they decided to hide us from view 😊



Nice and snug, must be busy in the port.....
Believe or not there is a 50ft sailing yacht tucked between those motor yachts...

Turkey
We have spent only a couple of weeks in Turkey.  There are several reasons for this; we have chartered several times before in Turkey so its not new to us, but we found it a bit more like hard work than in Greece – slightly more insistent traders and regularly thinking "I'm verging on the edge of feeling ripped off" which we haven’t felt in Greece at all. In addition it was unbearably hot and there seemed to be an exponential increase in the number and size of the mosquitos! However we have had a few nice days around the Bodrum area. 

We managed to find an excellent engineer called Attilla who sorted out the temperature control on the coolant system for our generator. 


We had our first donner kebab since we left Tooting in 1997. Amazingly and worryingly the plastic one outside for advertising purposes looked exactly like the one they were carving from.
 
We enjoyed looking at the amazing gullet fleets and marvelling at their outside space.  Some of the wooden ones are very special but apparently you have to be careful if buying one because they are not always well built and rot quickly.  In a land of ‘fake’ everything that is a worry.  

I want one of those......
Sunset in Bodrum


We were impressed with the devotion to competition to win the hearts of tourists in Gumusluk.  Every beach side restaurant has amazing lighting and special features like eating at a table at sea with your legs in the water.  Howeverthe food in the restaurant we chose sadly didn’t live up to the décor. 






We will return to Turkey in the future.  There is much more to see but for now we are on a mission to go west.